WINE OF THE WEEK: Autumn Wind Vineyard, Newberg, OR 1995 Sauvignon
Blanc; aging10 months in oak adds richness and toasty aromas, and a creamy,
rounded palate. I like this one!
The Autumn Wind Winery, owned by Tom and Wendy Kreutner, is a bit
out of the way, but worth the trip. This is a small, family owned and run
winery, producing 13,000 gallons, about 5,000 cases, per year.
To get to the winery, take State route 240 West out of Newberg,
Oregon, just south of Portland. Turn right to Ribbon Ridge Road, crossing
Chehalem Creek. Turn left to NE North Valley Road, to the winery. Call
503-538-6931 for a visit.
The Kreutners came to Portland, Oregon in the late seventies from
Los Angeles, because of an interest in the outdoors, and a love of home
winemaking.
Tom was a financial officer for a Portland bank while they looked
for a vineyard site. They found their 52 acre vineyard in theChehalem mountains
near Newberg in June of 1983, after a two year search, began planting grapes
in 1984, realizing a first vintage in 1987. An old cherry orchard covered
much of the premium acreage. Many of the 30 year old trees were uprooted
to clear the land for the first vines in 1984.
To date, 18.5 acres have been planted, and they hope to plant 33
to 35 acres eventually.
Tom Kreutner said the plan was to be very small, developing what
would essentially be a retirement business, "And it kind of got out of hand!"
(Laughter) At present they grow about fifty percent of the grapes they need,
and purchase the rest from local growers in Yamhill county.
The vineyard is planted mostly in pinot noir, the rest divided evenly
between Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. They have a lot of customers
who like their muller-thurgau, so they make it for the folks who like a little
sweeter wine, buying those grapes.
Autumn Wind is mostly noted for its pinot noir. They would like
to specialize in pinot noir but don't. Kreutner believes they are one of
the few Oregon wineries that can successfully make sauvignon blanc, barrel
fermenting it and sending it through ML, which rounds out the finish, rounds
out the palate and makes it a more approachable wine than fermenting in stainless
steel.
Their pinot noir is exclusively Estate grown. A tasting competition
by Clyde Coats ranked Autumn Wind '94 pinot tied with Adelsheim for No. 2
out of all the '94's he tasted, above Beaux Freres and Domaine Drouhin. And
that was on 5 - 6 year old plants.
Both Tom and Wendy Kreutner work the crush, so they have upgraded
to more automated and less labor-intensive equipment of the early days. They
now have a full-time employee, Rob Benke, assistant winemaker. Benke formally
worked for l'Ecole, spent a year in Switzerland, and joined Autumn Wind to
learn about making pinot noir.
Tom Kreutner believes winemaking is as much a passion as a livelihood,
especially with pinot noir. "You get a chance once each year to make the
best pinot noir you can. It's unforgiving of harsh treatment, and you don't
get a second chance. One must be very meticulous. As a small winery, you
get involved with every aspect, and one person can't do it all. So Benke
and I are always wearing each others hats."
Tom knows he is the restless type, Wendy keeps his feet to the ground.
He has an 'itch" to make some Washington cab and merlot, so don't be surprised
to see that added to the product line in the future.
About the Author: Nick Tomassi teaches wine and beer appreciation
classes at Olympic College. Visit his website:
www.silverlink.net/winecabinet
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