The Wine Cabinet
By Nick Tomassi

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Meet our expert wine columnist Nick Tomassi, who talks about how growing up in a large Italian family sparked his lifelong passion for wine.

Ten years ago my wife, Kathleen, and I joined five other couples on their annual trip to the Yakima Valley, Washington, Wine Country. As we spent the third weekend of October together with these good friends traveling from winery to winery, sampling the wines and eating the food, it reminded me of the family dinners I attended as a child growing up in Connecticut.

These were family celebrations which took place about every three months at Grandma and Grandpa Barbuto's home. Italian food and wine, aunts, uncles, and cousins filled the house to overflowing.

Mom was the fifth of ten children born to Italian immigrants, and most of them would show up. Grandpa and the uncles ran what would now be called a big Mom and Pop market, so food was plentiful, and best of all, Grandpa made his homemadewine "Dago Red". The grandkids would "help" Grandpa bring the wine up from the casks in the cellar.

At dinner, the family tradition was to give the children a liqueur glass (which looks like a miniature wine glass) filled part with wine and part with water. As we grew older we often succeeded in sweet-talking Grandpa into reducing the water content and increasing the wine.

The more assertive kids would butter up our favorite aunts and uncles for a "sip" of their wine. (Occasionally one of the cousins would have enough "sips" that he or she would be the evenings entertainment. I know from the stories they tell that I had my turn!)

After dinner, the usual entertainment was listening to Italian opera onthe old Victrola. I usually kept Grandpa awake by asking him to explain what the opera was about and what the singers were singing. So my introduction to great Italian food and good wine, homemade and purchased, and Italian opera, began as far back as I can remember.

My trip from Connecticut to Washington State came via a four year stint in the Air Force after graduating from high school; discharge from the Air Force in Portland, Oregon, and an engineering degree at the University of Portland. I worked as a test engineer at NavShipYd Brem for a few years, transferred to the Torpedo Station at Keyport, continuing to work as a test engineer; earned a Masters in Systems Management from the University of Southern California.

I finally retired in 1988 and we are now living in Silverdale, Washington, with a spectacular view of the Olympic Mountains. We call it ground zero, because Silverdale is just outside Submarine Base, Bangor. I figure that if the ChiComs decide to use the information they stole from us to launch a nuclear attack, we'll just grab a bottle of our best wine, sit on the front porch viewing the Olympics, and watch for the flash to get it over with.

After retirement I volunteered for about two years in the Adult Education part of the Continuing Ed Division of Olympic College. I took over the class when the regular GED Preparation instructor on campus became ill and was no longer able to teach. I currently teach math in the GED Preparation Program at Olympic College, Tuesdays and Thursdays.

Kathy and I have had the great pleasure of traveling to Europe a few times, with return visits to Italy, Germany, and France.]

I began a more serious study of the fruit of the vine after our last visit in 1989.Youngest daughter, Tracy, was a Rotary Exchange student in Geuntsburg, southern Germany, from August 1988 to August, 1989. We visited her in April, 1989, and traveled through southern Germany, across the Alps to northwest Italy, across northern Italy to Verona and Venice.

We then went back across the Alps to Vienna, Austria, and back to Geuntsburg, Germany. It was in Italy, about 20 miles north of Verona where we found the Tommasi Winery, slightly different spelling. We stopped and visited for a short while, and received some Tommasi wine.

Back home again, I began collecting books and reading everything I could find on the subject of wine. One of the first things I discovered was that books don't have much taste, so I decided to PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. Now THAT'S the way to learn about wine! (And as a matter of fact, it's the ONLY way to discover what wine tastes good to you).

But reading about wine and, drinking by yourself, has its limitations also, so I looked around for someone to teach me more about wine.

No book could answer some of the questions, like "How do I know when I taste a young wine that it will age well, that I can 'put it down' for five or ten years?", or "How long will a red or white wine last after it has been opened, and how can I prolong that time?" I knew that Olympic Community College had offered wine classes in the past, so I went through their old records, and spoke to the instructors named on the papers I found there.

None were willing to resume teaching. I asked everyone I knew for suggestions, with no luck. After about a year of dead ends, having found no-one locally who was interested, I decided to gather the material and give it a try myself. If I was going to learn more about wine, it would have to be through my own efforts.

In early 1993 I prepared a syllabus for the Continuing Education Division at Olympic College. Classes started in the fall of 1993 and over the years have included Wine Appreciation and the Art of Wine Tasting, Wines of the Pacific Northwest, Tasting International Wines, Making Wine, and Wine with Food. One of the pages on my web site has the information for each quarter's classes.

In 1995 I started writing a column on wine and beer for the local paper in Bremerton, Washington, The Sun., focusing on Pacific Northwest wine, winemakers, wineries, food and travel, and the same for beer, with occasional writing side trips to Italy and other wines of interest.

In 1998 I joined other contributing wine writers in the new magazine Wine Press Northwest, that is totally committed to the Pacific Northwest, that is, Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia.

My plan has always been to write about various aspects of the wonderful food we call wine, concentrating on the wines of the pacific Northwest, especially Washington State.

Wine Basics will include items such as some of the legends explaining where wine originated, and how it worked its way to Washington State; the Composition and Classification of wine; the Types of wine; Tips on Ordering wine in a restaurant and Buying wine for home consumption; Equipment such as bottles and their labels, glasses, etc; Touring the Wine Country, etc.

Since wine is intended to be drunk with food, the Wine With Food will focus on the signatures of different wines which give clues to their food matches. I'll write about wines I've enjoyed recently. I welcome readers' questions and suggestions. You can write to me in care of The Sun, PO Box 259, Bremerton 98337 or by contacting me by e-mail at nicktom@silverlink.net. You are welcome to visit my web site at www.silverlink.net/winecabinet.

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